Recycled VS. Recyclable.

They sound similar, they look similar. They are completely different. But we all feel good when buying clothes with one of these labels. Should we, though?

Recycled Means Giving a New Life. This Is What We All Know.

Recycled means “a second life for materials.” In fashion, this means that the fabric or material used in a product has been derived from pre-existing sources. These could be (just to name a few) discarded garments, textiles, or plastic bottles that have been transformed into new materials.

Recycled does NOT necessarily mean that they are also recyclable.

The “Recycled” Tag: What you should know.

• The amount of recycled material in the garment: It’s better to have a truthful calculated lower percentage instead of a “green-washed” 100%

• Look for certifications, such as GRS which ensures a minimum of 20% recycled material, or RCS, which ensures a minimum of 5%. Even if it looks like it’s not that much, it’s a start. When you can’t find any reference to the percentage. It’s legit to be suspicious.

Why is it so difficult to find a 100% truthful recycled material?

Currently, there is no textile-to-textile recycling at scale. This means that there are no recycling facilities able to take the full garment and recycle it.

This is immensely difficult as textile waste is a mix of everything and nothing. For it to be sorted, grinded, extruded, and spun, the required purity is never reached. Especially when there are small quantities of other materials. Even the dyes make this a difficult task.

But hey, there’s hope. Many companies are working on it.

There is not only one way of recycling, there are different methods addressing the different problems that come from recycling different materials. Therefore, a lot of companies are working and looking for solutions.

Texaid, for example, collects, sorts, repurposes, and downcycles. CETI, OST (IWK), and Agiplast focus on thermal-mechanical recycling. Plastogaz and DePoly focus on chemical recycling, and Rheiazymes on enzymatic recycling.

Nevertheless, one rule is still valid for all of the above: avoid mixing too many materials.

Recyclable: Designing for the Future.

On the other hand, "recyclable" refers to the potential of a material to be processed and remade into new products at the end of its useful life. Think of it as a promise of future sustainability. 

When a product is labeled as "recyclable," it's an invitation for responsible disposal—a signal that the material can re-enter the production cycle instead of becoming waste. However, the potential for recycling largely depends on accessible recycling infrastructure, consumer behavior, and the design of the product itself.

What to look for when buying recyclable CLOTHES:

• Recyclability strategy: Instructions at the end of life need to be clear. For example; Do I need to disassemble items from the garment before sending it back? (zipper, etc.), Is there an address to send it back to?

• What do I need to keep as an end consumer: Return address? product passport?

technical clothes.

Recycling regular clothes is a challenge in itself, but recycling technical clothes is even more challenging due to the presence of a membrane that cannot be separated. Even though the membrane might be recyclable, it doesn't matter if it can't be disassembled first.

AT DIMPORA WE’RE WORKING TO SOLVE it and help outdoor brands on their sustainability journey.

The responsibility of recycling clothes is, like usual, a joint effort. But our contribution at dimpora is clear. Our membranes are recyclable, but the great news is that we’ve worked with fellow companies such as DePoly and Plastogaz, to solve the disassembling issue. After very promising trials, we made it possible to recycle our membranes together with textiles without separating them first.

Additionally, we’re also working on mono-material constructions.

TAKEAWAYS:

• Transparency: Brands that are genuinely committed to sustainability will provide clear information about their materials and processes. Check for certifications or partnerships that vow for their claims.

• Details: go beyond the buzzwords. Ask about the percentage of recycled materials used, the durability of the product, and its end-of-life possibilities.

• Quality Over Quantity: A well-made item will have a smaller overall footprint if it lasts longer.

• Circular Brands: Some brands are taking the lead in a circular fashion, creating products that are designed for easy disassembly and recycling.

• Be Skeptical: Not everything labeled as "green" is sustainable. If something sounds too good to be true, it probably is.

How On Earth Are Our Membranes Sustainable?

We very often get this question, “how are you sustainable if your current membranes are oil-based?” Let’s dive into that.

But first, context.

When a garment is waterproof and breathable it means that it contains a membrane between the face fabric and the lining. This thin layer, that no one sees, is what makes your garment waterproof and breathable (high-performant). In essence, it means that your clothes will keep you dry no matter what.

Currently, all membrane manufacturers rely on oil-based polymers to produce these membranes based on their technologies. Even if there are promising advancements using bio-based polymers, the technology is not quite there yet. But let’s come back to this in a bit.

“Oil-based” refers to polymers made from fossil fuels, which are primarily hydrocarbons derived from the ground. Therefore, the name “Oil-based polymers” reflects the origin of the raw materials.

On the other hand, “bio-based” refers to biological products, renewable agricultural materials, or forestry materials. Contrary to the general belief, using bio-based polymers is no easy task. Unlike picking cherries from a tree, these raw materials must undergo intensive chemical processes to become polymers. Rarely are bio-based materials 100% from plants; values usually range between 20% and 80%, which is already amazing but not fully oil-free.

All in all, determining a product’s sustainability goes beyond its raw material source; It requires considering the entire lifecycle, including extraction, production, use, and end-of-life management.

Toxic Chemicals and the Impact of Solvents

To the use of oil-based polymers, most manufacturers also incorporate highly environmentally damaging chemicals such as PFCs/PFAS for their waterproof properties. These chemicals shouldn't have a place in consumer goods and increasingly, governments worldwide are also recognizing this, leading to their prohibition in various regions.

Similarly, many manufacturers still use toxic solvents that not only have a significant negative effect on the carbon footprint of membranes but also working with these solvents in factories without strict safety measures leads to severe health problems.

Our Intrinsic Commitment to Sustainability

We were born as an alternative to the existing options in the market, that’s why our membranes don’t contain neither PFAS/PFCs nor toxic solvents. That being said, we are aware that sustainability is a complex road and continuous improvement is a must.

WHAT ELSE ARE WE BRINGING TO THE TABLE?

• We are developing a highly bio-based membrane that is predominantly composed of renewable materials.

• Our technology allows us to work with polymers that find wide application in the textile industry. We aim to create mono-material laminates, wherein textiles, glue, and membranes all consist of the same polymer. This will ease circularity through efficient recycling processes.

• Our current oil-based membranes are also recyclable. Both dimpora membranes are chemically recyclable even in the laminate construction without additional separation of the layers. The trials provided good yields of valuable raw materials for new polymeric materials. Taking into account the use phase of an outdoor sports garment (approx. 5 years), we strongly believe that the chemical recycling processes will be at scale once the commercial products with dimpora membrane are coming to their end-of-life. Therefore, recyclable multi-layer textiles will be a breakthrough for the whole industry.

While the question of sustainability and oil-based materials is fair, it requires a detailed explanation and a context (like most things). Very rarely things are either black or white. Sustainability might be a bumpy road that requires a holistic approach and an unprecedented collaboration of all the parties implied, from manufacturers to brands to consumers, but it’s absolutely worth it and we’re here for it. Are you?

The key to achieve mono-materiality in performance wear.

So, what exactly is mono-materiality?

It's all about designing and manufacturing products using just one type of material. More particularly for garments or textiles, traditionally, they have been composed of multiple materials like cotton blends, synthetic fibers, and metal components, making them incredibly difficult or even impossible to recycle. By embracing a mono-material approach, the textile industry can revolutionize its production processes, minimize waste by facilitating recycling, and pave the way for a more sustainable future.

How mono-materiality could save the day?

Enhanced recyclability

Mono material textiles are made from a single material, hence they don't require complex separation processes (which don’t even exist yet, or are not financially viable solutions). This means that higher recycling rates can be achieved, reducing the amount of waste that ends up languishing in landfills or being incinerated. It's all about creating closed-loop recycling systems that minimize the industry's environmental impact.

Resource conservation

By focusing on optimizing production processes for a single material, manufacturers can reduce raw material loss and maximize resource utilization. This means we extract fewer raw materials, preserving precious resources for future generations. A win-win situation for both the industry and the planet.

Streamlined supply chains. 

Reducing the number of suppliers and minimizing logistical complexities simplifies everything. The result? Improved transparency and traceability, empowering companies and consumers to make more informed choices about the environmental and social impacts of their textile purchases.

What’s the deal with the outdoor industry?

Functional outdoor apparel, such as jackets, often incorporate membranes to provide essential performance features like waterproofing, breathability, and wind resistance. 
These membrane-based garments consist of multiple layers, including, most of the time, an outer shell, a membrane layer, and an inner lining plus special bonding techniques (adhesives, tapes, or heat-sealing methods) to prevent water penetration through the seams.

Each of these layers serves a specific purpose, but they are also made out of different materials in order to keep the performance levels. Now imagine, if just a regular T-shirt presents important recycling difficulties, functional apparel is the “end boss”. Achieving a closed-loop recycling system for mono-material garments with membranes requires innovative recycling technologies and infrastructure.

Current available options often fall short in replicating the performance attributes of traditional membranes. Advancements in material science and manufacturing processes are necessary to overcome these limitations.

the outlook

Continual research and development efforts are crucial to discovering alternative mono-material options. This includes exploring new polymer technologies and eco-friendly coatings.

Designing garments with easier disassembly in mind can also facilitate recycling. 

Collaboration between outdoor brands, material suppliers, and recycling facilities is essential for sharing expertise and finding innovative solutions. Collective efforts are key.

Educating consumers about the environmental impact of functional garments and the challenges surrounding mono-materiality can foster awareness and drive demand for sustainable alternatives. Encouraging responsible consumption and the proper disposal or recycling of outdoor apparel is vital. Furthermore, accepting that until material science brings it to the next level, mono-materiality implies that fabrics will have fewer functionalities. Usually achieved by mixing different materials which provide different attributes. (i.e. elastane for stretch)

Are there any solutions already?

At dimpora, we are striving to provide laminates for our customers that would allow easy recycling for Post Industrial or post-consumer waste. As we have a unique platform technology, we are sourcing polymers already made into fabrics to produce our waterproof and breathable membranes. 

This can be a real challenge as the “touch & feel” of polymeric materials working well to make fibers does not necessarily fit the purpose of a functional membrane (too brittle and not soft enough). However, our R&D team is working hard to find the perfect materials which then show high performance and great hand feel.

With membranes and fabric made out of the same material, it greatly simplifies the recycling prospect. The cherry on the cake will be to find the adhesive out of the same materials. Hence the importance of collaborative work with all stakeholders.

You made it till the end. Thanks for reading!

The hype on CO2 reduction and how to interpret it.

CO2 emissions, carbon reduction, and carbon neutrality - you've probably heard these terms before, but what do they mean? The topic of sustainability can be incredibly complex and overwhelming, but we're committed to making it more accessible and understandable. We believe that sustainability is a journey, and we're here to help guide you along the way.

What’s all the hype about CO2 reduction in the textile industry?

As you probably know, CO2 is a greenhouse gas that plays a significant role in contributing to climate change. That's why reducing CO2 emissions is crucial if we want to mitigate the effects of global warming. However, when it comes to sustainability, it's important to recognize that CO2 emissions are just one piece of a much larger puzzle.

While reducing carbon emissions is important, it's not the only factor to consider when it comes to environmental impact. For example, land use, water use, and toxicity of materials all have significant effects on biodiversity and the overall health of our planet. That's why looking at the big picture is crucial.

Carbon offsetting and the famous “carbon neutrality.”

Carbon offsetting could be translated as carbon compensation. It is the process of investing in projects that reduce CO2 emissions (e.g. build a wind park to replace coal for electricity production) or capture it naturally (e.g. plant a tree/a forest) to compensate for the emissions produced by a company. This can be done with direct investments in projects or also indirectly through the purchase of carbon credits, for example from carbon capture companies.

But what actually happens with that CO2?

This is when carbon utilization and storage comes into play, also called CCUS (Carbon Capture Utilization Storage), in other words, what to do with the CO2 that is captured from the atmosphere or from industrial production sites. This is behind what we know as “carbon neutral” for companies that can’t really get rid of their emissions by other means.

The current most common uses of captured CO2 are:

1. Enhanced oil recovery, (CCS & CCU): in very simple terms, this means injecting the CO2 into the ground to get more oil from it.

2. Mineralization (CCS): storing the CO2 in concrete or in the ground so it’s not in the air anymore.

There is tons of research being done on these topics. Even if creating real value that can be scaled for huge volumes is not here yet, for sure is coming.

Source, source, source.

What does “CO2 Eq.” mean? 

“CO2 Eq.” stands for carbon dioxide equivalent. It is a unit of measurement that is used to compare the Global Warming Potential (GWP) of different greenhouse gases based on their ability to trap heat in the atmosphere over a given period of time (usually 100 years). CO2 is used as the reference gas, with a global warming potential of 1. Other greenhouse gases, such as methane, have higher GWP when converted to the equivalent amount of CO2 (28-36 times more GWP than CO2 over the same period of time, 100 years)

PFCs are also considered potent greenhouse gases with high GWP values, with estimates ranging from several thousand to tens of thousands of times that of carbon dioxide. 
Source, Source

Is CO2 all that matters?

When we talk about the environmental impact everyone talks about CO2, but we also need to take into account the toxicity of the materials used. A good example is “durability”. Yes, it is good to use our clothes as long as possible because a garment might reduce its carbon footprint if it’s been used for more than 10 years. But how was this durability achieved? What kind of chemicals were used? What toxic materials are then being spread out during washing or its use over the course of 10 years?

We can’t ignore the toxicity of the materials used. Even if tackling toxicity levels is difficult and complex. 

More comprehensive LCAs need greater financial resources but it’s still crucial to have the whole picture. 

What is an LCA?

It stands for Life Cycle Assessment and it is a method used to evaluate the environmental impact of a product over its entire life cycle: from the extraction of raw materials to the product manufacturing (cradle-to-gate) and use phase or to the final disposal (cradle-to-grave) or recycling (cradle-to-cradle). LCAs are used to identify areas where improvements can be made to reduce the environmental impact of a product or a service.

What are we doing at dimpora to assess our impact?

Since we are a membrane producer, the scope of our LCA takes into account the manufacturing processes of our membrane materials (e.g., polymer production), dimpora’s membrane production processes, and transportation between the facilities. The next objective for our LCA is to assess the full textile laminate: involving the fabric, dyes, glue, and DWR (durable water repellent) used.

Afterward, outdoor brands will take this information and bring it down to the final garment and all the way to the product end of life (EOL). Running our own LCAs will eventually help brands to calculate their own environmental impact.

Now, what can you do with all this information?

If you are a brand starting a sustainability journey:

Start designing to facilitate recycling in post-industrial waste and/or post-consumer waste. It starts with the choice of materials and thinking about disassembly and accessories.

If you want to do something about it as an individual here are a few ideas: even if it looks too big of an issue to make an individual impact, it is possible.

• Look for a maximum of two mixes of materials, ideally 100% of one material. This will facilitate recycling afterward.

• Ideally, avoid colours (dark colours in particular) - undyed garments had less impact during their production. We know it’s easy to say, everyone loves colours (even us).

• Look for recycled materials on your garment - be aware that 100% seems to be too good to be true with the current set-up of recyclability in the world.

• Look for the label recyclable - then check what you should do when you don’t want your garment anymore.

• Read about the sustainability actions of your favourite brands. Sometimes actions backstage regarding packaging, transport, and energy in production are more valuable than a nice hang tag. 

• Read the little text on hang tags: typically you might clearly see “PFCs-free”, but when you pay attention to the little text you see “except…” “PFCs-free DWR only”, “PFCec”. From the membrane to the DWR should be “PFCs-free”.

Are 3D membranes the future of waterproof breathables?

If you're an outdoor enthusiast, you've probably heard of functional membranes, also known as waterproof breathable membranes. But for those of you who don’t, let’s quickly define them.

A membrane is a thin layer, made out of polymer, that is glued in between the outer fabric and the inner fabric of your outdoor garment. Imagine a sandwich.

There are different technologies to produce membranes: we can start from different raw materials (polymers) and there is a range of processes to shape the membrane. But the main and foremost duty of a membrane is to keep us dry from different weather conditions and outdoor activities. To be something no one really sees is rather important.

As simple and basic as this explanation is, the technology behind functional membranes is something else. Yet, all of them must be glued between two layers of fabric to accomplish their job. Similarly, the final garments (i.e. ski jackets) also need seam taping to keep the seams sealed and impede water from passing through them ruining the performance (waterproofness and breathability).

However, what if a membrane could be sprayed directly onto the textile? The options are great and the leftovers very few. This is what we call a 3D membrane.

How does it work?

Before becoming a thin layer, the membrane is a viscous mix. This state allows the mix to be sprayed, coated, or even printed directly into the fabric. Allowing to have membranes made in just one piece or applied on tailored garments. On top of that and even cooler, is that a 3D membrane can also be free-standing, creating socks, gloves, or other accessories.

What are the advantages of this application?

• Get rid of the glue.

• Little to no waste.

• No seams. No weak spots.

• No seam taping.

• Performance is intact all over the garment.

• It is PFAS-free and highly functional.

Our R&D team is actively working on developing this technology. With our technological expertise and brand partnerships, we are excited to keep bringing new opportunities to the textile market.